Unwanted Orange Is A Varied Issue
Issues with orange are broad and effect all shades from medium brown to light blonde. It is worth noting, the darker the base, orange issues may also include red tones. Sometimes an individual may love their current dark blonde shade (for example), yet, dislike the copper tone the hair emits . Alternatively, you may be aiming for a solid blonde shade, but find the hair forever turning apricot. Hopefully, the Scott Cornwall products I discuss in this article will offer a solution to your particular issue.
A Quick Guide To the Unwanted Orange Products Discussed
Decolour Orange Remover
Scott Cornwall Decolour Orange Remover as a totally unique concept in removing unwanted orange from a variety of shades.
The product is for those who have bleached or lightenened to a true orange or copper. It can also be used on medium blonde and lighter browns to achieve a dark ash blonde.
Decolour Orange Remover gives permanent results and contains amino acids that strengthen the bonds within the hair. Learn more here….
Colour Restore Cool Ash
Colour Restore Cool Ash is now in its second decade on the market. Over the past 10 years, I have strived to keep Cool Ash the most neutralising and effective Anti-Orange toner on the market. Colour Restore Cool Ash contains multiple pigments designed to combat both yellow and gold molecules, whilst also creating a true ash blonde shade.
If you battle copper and orange tones in bleached, lightened and general colour treated hair, Colour Restore Cool Ash is the solution for you. It’s also highly effective on highlighted and natural dark blonde/light brown bases. Learn more here….
Colour Restore Super Cool Ash
Colour Restore Super Cool Ash is the ultimate ash toner. Designed for darker and brunette bases who hate warm, orange and red tones. Colour Restore Super Cool Ash is suited to artificial brunette bases displaying rusty or copper tones, that cannot be eradicated, whatever previously tried.
If you are a lighter base, Colour Restore Super Cool Ash will neutralise unwanted orange and appear as a very cold, ash brunette. Because Super Cool Ash features depth colour molecules, it also blends out unwanted white/grey hair. Learn more here….
Decolour Stripper
My article Bleached Hair Turns Orange gives the number one reason bleached hair results in a bright orange shade. Insufficient lightening! In these instances, Decolour Stripper is an ideal option as the product can remove both natural and artificial pigments. Including any remaining red and yellow pigments left from bleaching.
Decolour Stripper is a gentle, non ammonia formula. Featuring a depigmenting agent and an amino acid complex. Combined, these ingredients strip even dark hair of colour. Removing unwanted, underlying orange tone. After using Decolour Stripper, you can immediately recolour to your desired blonde or lighter shade. Learn more here..
Decolour Orange Remover
Scott Cornwall Decolour Orange Remover is an all-in-one solution for every kind of unwanted orange issue. But particularly bleached hair that appears orange. Decolour Orange Remover is a unique concept, as it can work on any depth level (from light to dark) to neutralise orange and copper tones. Simply match the Orange Remover development time with the specific depth and orange tone currently displaying in the hair.
How Decolour Orange Remover Works
The product is a two-part intermixable remover that contains oxidation pigments. You simply mix the Part 1 Activator with the Part 2 Developer and apply to the hair.
The remover can lift up to two depth levels whilst also counteracting the unwanted orange tones. As explained in my article, the issue for unwanted orange (when bleaching) is insufficient lightening. Therefore, Decolour Orange Remover can lift out a degree of the remaining depth to enable better neutralisation to blonde.
In addition, the activator features pigments that permanently neutralise yellow and gold tones. So, hair bleached to an apricot/copper shade will lift and tone to a pure blonde. On much darker orange and red bases, Decolour Orange Remover will neutralise to a fawn colour or a ash lightest brown.
The key is development
Decolour Orange Remover is easy to mix and apply. Development is tailored to the individual’s specific level of depth and orange tone present within the hair. I will explain:
In bleach yellow with only hints of copper, Decolour Orange Remover may only require a 5-minute development to achieve a clean blonde.
By contrast, if your hair is a deep bright orange the product may require up to 45 minutes development. A higher deposit of Anti-Orange tones requires a longer development. Obviously, the more orange tone in the hair, the more neutralisation required.
Plus, Hair Repair Treatment
Another great aspect of Decolour Orange Remover is the final step Conclude Balm.
Conclude Balm is a unique complex featuring amino acids that mimic the amino acids found within the hair fibres. Bleaching will swell the hair shaft. This swelling can compromise and weaken the hair fibres. Such weakening is due to the high PH of ammonia-based bleach and the boosted oxidation process, which is capable of weakening and breaking the amino acid bonds within the hair chains. These chains hold our hair together. Therefore, aspects such as bond weakening and breakage, in-turn lead to the damage and snapping typically seen with bleached hair. In fact, most damage caused by bleach does not happen during or immediately after the bleaching process, but in the days and even weeks following.
How does Conclude Balm Work?
Conclude Balm features the same amino acids found within the hair’s internal bonds. After hair has undergone chemical treatment (such as bleaching or Decolour Orange Remover), the hair shaft remains open and penetrable. This open state enables the Conclude Balm formula to enter deep inside the hair (just as a chemical process can) and absorb into the internal hair fibres. The Conclude Balm amino acids then begin linking within the internal hair structure, filling any gaps within the natural amino acid bonds, and both maintaining and building hair strength. The low PH level of the Conclude Balm also normalises the hair.
Strengthened, Healthy Hair
Whilst the hair feels soft and strong after application of Conclude Balm, the ultimate benefit is initially less visable. After use of Conclude Balm, bleached and chemically treated hair is strengthened and risk of snapping and general breakage is dramatically reduced. This makes Decolour Orange Remover a great second process item to use if you regularly lighten or bleach your hair. Not only will the product permanently remove orange and warm tones, but it will reinforce and render freshly bleached hair.
Buy Decolour Orange Remover Here
Colour Restore Cool Ash
Scott Cornwall Colour Restore Cool Ash is a complex Anti-Orange Toner. Colour Restore Cool Ash not only counteracts orange tones within the hair, but also achieves a solid cool shade within all bases from pale, bleached yellow to warm/copper brown.
How Colour Restore Cool Ash Works
Generally, a standard Anti-Yellow Toner or Anti-Orange Toner will function by featuring either a violet pigment or blue pigment. In some instances both. These pigments can neutralise the yellow or orange tone. However, (in my experience), simply neutralising tone is not always enough to create the desired lightest blonde to lightest brown shade. The most effective Anti-Orange Toner formula should be based on colourant principles. So, think ‘shade’ rather than tone. Here, uneven lightening is balanced, unwanted tones are neutralised and hair adopts a clean, solid shade.
When I created Colour Restore Cool Ash, I wanted the formulation to contain the highest amount of blue and violet pigments to combat the unwanted orange. In addition, I wanted depth pigments also included. Meaning, Colour Restore Cool Ash will balance out uneven shades and produce a true, consistant, cool ash shade.
As A Bleach Hair Toner
Colour Restore Cool Ash is an impressive standalone toner when used on freshly bleached hair of the ‘inside banana peel yellow’ tone. If hair is bleached to a clean, pale, yellow, Colour Restore Cool Ash (given a full 20-minute development), produces a perfect creamy, lightest ash blonde.
Toning Down Blonde Hair
Shades of blonde (including block blonde, highlights & balayage) suffering from unwanted brassy, ginger, or copper tones benefit greatly Colour Restore Cool Ash. In all blonde bases, Cool Ash will immediately neutralise warm overtones creating a balanced blonde shade.
Cool Ash is partcularly effective on dark brown hair with highlights. In this instance, you will banish unwanted ‘ginger blonde’ often seen with brunette lightening. And create that chocolate base with the creamy blonde highlight.
Brunette Hair Toner
Many brunettes suffer from unwanted orange issues. Unwanted brunette orange is often due to use of permanent colourants. The Hydrogen Peroxide in colourant developers, can lighten natural melanin and expose underlying yellow and red pigments within hair.
Applying Colour Restore Cool Ash to a lighter brunette base, will neutralise any warmth and the shade will take on a clean, neutral tone. For darker brunettes, use Scott Cornwall Colour Restore Super Cool Ash (see below).
Deep Conditioning Colour Deposit
All Colour Restore shade pigments are imbedded within a formulation that without colour would be regarded as a Deep Conditioning Treatment. Whilst this sounds lovely for the hair (which it is) my true motivation for working with a deep conditioning base formula is its ability to penetrate deeper into the hair fibres.
Many toners and true semi-permanent colourants feature larger molecules which work on the higher levels of the hair shaft and upon the cuticle layer. Whilst these products may give satisfactory results, the colour can fade very quickly. More importantly, the colour may fade in a patchy and inconsistent manner.
When I created Colour Restore over a decade ago, I knew incorporating a deep conditioning base for colour pigments would deposit those colour pigments deeper into the hair fibre (giving longer lasting results). In addition, the deep conditioning properties of such a formulation balance hair quality. Achieving an even colour result throughout. Meaning, as the colour molecules leave the hair, they do so evenly. Remember, pre-bleached and lightened hair often has uneven porosity. So, if hair is neither balanced nor equalised, semi-permanent colour molecules grab in some parts and not others, causing a patchy hair colour or tone. Because a Colour Restore shade balances, shade results are even and fade evenly.
Buy Colour Restore Cool Ash Here
Colour Restore Super Cool Ash
Anti Red-Orange Toner
Sometimes lightened hair is not ‘just orange’, but red-orange.
Remember, we have an abundance or red and yellow pigments within the hair. When we lighten, these red pigments are the second to go after the dark melanin pigments. When we have more yellow pigments present than red, the hair appears orange. However, the more red pigments remaining, the darker the hair will be.
Use of Permanent Colourants Often Culprit Of Unwanted Red-Orange
Those with naturally dark brown hair, often suffer from an unwanted ‘red-orange’ after use of a peroxide based permanent hair colourants. This occurs, because even low levels of peroxide can lift away the large melanin pigments responsible for the natural dark brown shade.
Think of it like this: Imagine a bright red sheet of paper. Then imagine pouring black paint powder across that red sheet of paper. The paper would now appear to be black, right? Now imagine blowing on that sheet of paper just a little. Some of that black powder would scatter and fine patches of the underlying red would show through. Dark brunette shades are very much like this. Just the smallest amount of oxidation (so hydrogen peroxide) can lift away a small enough amount of brown and black melanin pigment to enable the underlying red pheomelanin pigment to show through as a red-orange (or rusty) hue.
Artificial Brunettes Who Are Seeing Copper/Rust Hue
Are you are using a brunette colourant (to cover grey or simply achieve a depth), yet seeing copper/rust hue. Colour Restore Super Cool Ash can resolve this issue. Just use a small amount of Colour Restore Cool Ash as a conditioner, after each wash. The Anti-Red orange pigments in the product will neutralise copper/rust hue. If you leave the formula on for the full 20 minute development, you will achieve a very cold, ash brunette.
Dark Brunettes Who Wish To Be Lighter
An individual with a darker natural base does not always wish to lighten for the purpose of going blonde. Many darker bases simply want a natural looking light brown. Without copper or rust tones. In these situations, lifting the hair (with either bleach or a lightening product such as Decolour Stripper see below) will lighten the base. Yet, you will likely see a red-orange copper shade.
In these instances, Colour Restore Super Cool Ash can be great. Using Colour Restore Super Cool Ash on a lightened copper will achieve a true dark blonde/light brown. Apply it immediately after using your chosen lightening product. Give it a full 20 minute development. The result will be a true 6.0 dark blonde/light brown shade. To maintain the shade, just use a small amount of Colour Restore Super Cool Ash as a regular use 2 minute conditioner.
How Colour Restore Super Cool Ash Works
Super Cool Ash works with the same deep conditioning base as my other Colour Restore shades. However, Super Cool Ash has an abundance of both neutralising and depth pigments. Super Cool Ash (as a shade) is a very cool, metallic deep brown. The male version is very popular with guys who are turning salt and pepper grey. In this situation, the guys may not wish to dye their hair, but instead blend out the white and keep the hair cool toned. When used as a toner, Super Cool Ash is ideal on brunette bases displaying a rusty or red orange tone.
The formula contains pigments of violet, blue, green, and brown. These pigments can neutralise orange and red tones within the hair. The pigments also deliver a supporting brunette depth to prevent the tonal pigments overpowering the lightened base. The result is a true, smoky light brunette depth and tone. Whilst void of warmth, the hair still looks glossy and healthy.
Cool Brown Hair
Super Cool Ash is a great regular use conditioner. The base formula is both hydrating and moisturizing. Keep it in the shower and use for several minutes after rinsing out your regular shampoo. Just a few minutes after each wash will keep your hair a Cool Brown shade and prevent any unwanted red or orange tones re-appearing. Plus the rich conditioner base will keep your hair soft, strengthened, and healthy.
Buy Colour Restore Super Cool Ash Here
Decolour Stripper
Stripping Orange From Hair
Bleaching dyed dark hair is not a good idea. Synthetic darker pigments can be abundant within the hair. Sitting amongst the natural darker hair pigments. When a natural brunette wishes to go lighter or blonde, it is a simplistic process. Here, all the bleach must do is enter the hair and begin oxidizing the melanin pigments, which are the natural brown pigments. The bleach next oxidizes the pheomelanin pigments, which are the natural red and yellow pigments. This process to occur in layers, with the dark pigment leaving very quickly. The red pigment following. And finally the yellow pigment reducing to a pale that will enable correct toning to a blonde shade. In reality, all the pigments are oxidizing simultaneously. However, the larger, dark melanin pigment are in smaller supply. Therefore, vanish first. Leaving the red and yellow pheomelanin pigment remaining.
Artificial Dark Pigments Are Resistant
Whilst someone with natural brown hair will find the base lifts reasonably evenly. Such lifting will not be experienced by someone who has used a permanent brown hair colour. In fact, here the rules of the game are thrown out of the window. Remember, permanent hair colour is created using synthetic colour molecules. A shade (let’s say medium brown) might feature a much higher abundance of darker pigment than you’d typically find in natural hair of the same depth. The artificial colour will also oxidize and embed within the hair at different points to where the natural pigment may reside. Then consider (on top) your natural pigments are also in the mix. So a bleach has double if not triple the work to do.
Never Try To Bleach Artificial Dark & Black Dye
Applying a typical bleach onto hair treated with a permanent brunette colourant can be a disaster. Simply because synthetic colour molecules can be very resistant to bleaching. Therefore, you could reach a full processing point and still find the hair appears to be a dark, orange red. More importantly, you are not able to segregate the hair fibres and natural pigments from this process. So, whilst the artificial colour molecules are battling the bleach (and winning) your natural pigments could be oxidizing away and the hair fibres becoming ever more compromised. Therefore, previous brunette coloured hair often bleaches to a fluorescent tangerine colour. This result is due to the natural depth being lifted away whilst the artificial red and yellow pigments refuse to budge.
You Have Bleached To Orange – Now What?
If you have bleached a dark artificial base and achieved a bright orange-red, it can be a problem. You will need that orange out if you wish to get to a much lighter shade. But using bleach to lift out depth and orange tones can be very compromising to the hair fibre. More importantly, bleach will swell out the cuticle and make it less effective at holding a permanent colour molecule applied subsequently.
Why I created Decolour Stripper
The purpose of creating Decolour Stripper was to offer people, who were wishing to remove both natural and artificial pigments, a safer way to go lighter. Without having to use traditional bleach. The purpose of Decolour Stripper is to lift out depth, to enable immediate recolouring of the new chosen shade. When hair has too much orange present, Decolour Stripper gives a quick and effective solution for removal. And because hair retains quality, damage is not caused by the subsequent (lighter) permanent colourant applied.
Gentle Formulation
Decolour Stripper features a unique non-ammonia depigmenting powder. So, whilst this powder contains a bleaching agent, it does not function as a traditional hair bleach powder. The Decolour Stripper depigmenting powder oxidizes in a controlled and very gentle manner. Meaning, the formula will continue to oxidize and lighten the synthetic brunette colour molecules, without blasting the natural pigment and hair fibre.
The developer strength is very low (at only 6%) so the formula will lift evenly and consistently throughout the hair. Decolour Stripper can only lift to 5 levels. However it will preserve the condition and leave the hair in a state in which you can repeat the stripping process. So for example, if you took (artificial) medium brunette hair to a copper in the first stripping session, the second would take the hair to a pale yellow. This pale yellow would either tone or recolour (to a lighter or blonde shade) very well.
Recolour Your Desired Lighter Shade
Decolour Stripper is not a ‘destination shade’ product. Its purpose is to strip unwanted colour (such as orange or brunette artificial pigments) to immediately recolour to a new lighter shade. Be it with a permanent box colourant or a toner product such as Colour Restore Cool Ash. Think of it like giving an undercoat to a dark wall, to enable a second coat of a white or magnolia colour.
The key aspect with Decolour Stripper is hair condition will not be compromised as it might if you attempted to just bleach the hair. The final step Conclude Balm internally strengthens and normalises the hair. Meaning a subsequent chemical-based colourant applied will not grab or cause damage to the hair.
A Note On Darkest Brown & Black
Please note, you should never use Decolour Stripper if you currently have very darkest brown or black dyed hair. The advice in this article is for those with either dark/medium brown hair and lighter. Or those who have attempted to bleach dark hair and achieved an orange result.
If you currently have a very dark brown or black (artificial) shade and wish to go lighter, my recommended approach is to use Decolour Remover first. Decolour Remover works only on artificial colour molecules. Therefore, you can remove all the dark brown and black colour molecules and achieve a base that will lighten far more evenly and successfully.
Got A Question For Me About This Article?
If you have any questions about Decolour Orange Remover, Colour Restore Cool Ash, Colour Restore Super Cool Ash or Decolour Stripper, just let me know below. I try to answer all questions with detailed responses that should help you.
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