COLOUR RESTORE Cool Ash

£11.99

Scott Cornwall Colour Restore Cool Ash is an anti-orange treatment toner, with a high concentration of ash and blue pigments, and is formulated to actively neutralise unwanted copper or orange tones in artificially coloured and lightened hair whilst conditioning the hair.

Use for 20 minutes as an intense tonal restoration treatment or as a two minute regular conditioner for tonal maintenance.

100ml

SKU: CONCR3742C Category:

Cool Ash was the genesis for Colour Restore several years ago. My frustration, even as a colourist, was that professional manufacturers produced so few ash colourants. Yet there were so many people out there who disliked warmth in their hair and wanted a neutral, cool or ash tone. However, most colourant manufacturers seemed determined to continue giving consumers evermore warm based colourants. Therefore, I knew a product was needed to simply and quickly neutralise unwanted warmth in the hair. However, there were no types of ash toner available in either the retail or professional markets. So, the Colour Restore range was born with the concept of Cool Ash.

Just like Iced Platinum (and all Colour Restore shades) Cool Ash is a conditioning base that features a high concentrate, specific direct dye pigment. In the case of Cool Ash, the direct dye pigment is a blue-violet ash tone. If you look at the Colour Wheel you will see that blue neutralises (counteracts) orange. In the case of Cool Ash, the formula enables that orange neutralisation, thus it’s secondary descriptive of ‘Anti-Orange’. However, when I refer to orange, I do not mean bright sun orange, I’m referring to a gingery tone or unwanted warm hue. You need to consider that a second type of orange exists which is the ‘red-orange’. You will only obtain red-orange hair if a) you have attempted to lighten and not lightened enough or b) if a previous artificial red molecule is residing within the hair. In both these instances, a toning product is not applicable, and you should either re-lighten the hair or seek a colour remover to eradicate that artificial red colour molecule. You should also be aware that when you do see a ‘red-orange’ shade in the hair, such a tone could not be neutralised with a blue-violet, as red-orange requires a green-blue tone to counteract and in all instances the neutralised tone would become a deeper brunette.

With Colour Restore Cool Ash, due to the fact it is neutralising the most dominant unwanted tone – which is orange – the formula generally needs building up in the hair. So, if you want more than just a neutral non-warm shade, but instead an ash shade, you must use Cool Ash in an intensive treatment twice in succession. Initially, to neutralise the orange to create a neutral base shade, and subsequently to overload the hair with the ash, enabling that ash tone to be seen in the hair and not counter balanced by the underlying warm tone. This aspect is a crucial point to understand when using the product. In short, it is first and foremost a neutraliser. So, alone it is not designed to create an ash shade, its purpose is to counteract unwanted warmth in the hair. If you desire an ash tone, then (as stated) the product needs to be applied twice in succession. You will then need to use a blue shampoo as your regular cleanser, followed by Cool Ash as your regular two-minute conditioner. This approach maintains an ash tone in the hair. To reiterate, ash tone is one of the hardest tones to display in hair types darker than light blonde, simply because it will always attempt to act as a neutraliser to banish warmth in the hair. Therefore, the hair must be overloaded with ash in instances where the base is a dark blonde to brunette and you are seeking a clear ash toned colour.

USES FOR COOL ASH

With present ‘cool colour’ trends, there are many people who would benefit from using Cool Ash:

Hydrogen Peroxide in permanent hair colourants, lightens the natural pigments within the hair exposing warm tones. Even black artificial hair colourants lighten natural hair to some degree. This warmth is often not noticed, until a hair colour remover is applied, the artificial pigment is removed and that lightening (and warmth) is exposed. Using Colour Restore Cool Ash immediately after hair colour removal will counteract this warmth. Cool Ash is also peroxide free, meaning it will not evoke re-oxidation of the removed shade.

Another consumer sector who have great success with the product, are brunettes who use permanent colour to cover grey. These consumers tend to find the peroxide in the developer of the permanent colour lightens their natural hair colour and kicks up warmth in the non-grey hair, causing the hair to start taking on a gingery colour. In my experience, this is one of the biggest issues found with brunette grey coverage. In fact, many of our Cool Ash consumers are using the product for this very purpose.

Cool Ash is also great for metallic shades. Metallic hair is very difficult to maintain, but if someone with an artificial grey or metallic shade regularly uses Cool Ash, the hair will fully retain its metallic shade without risk of becoming merely a neutral colour or a rusty ginger.

Because we are now in a ‘Cool Toned’ hair fashion era, the core consumer for Cool Ash is vast. Whilst tending to be those of a natural brunette base who are seeking a neutral to cool shade, many light blondes also use Cool Ash to evoke a light ash-grey blonde effect. Most notably, it’s become a key product for those with balayage foundations in the hair, who want to cool down and mute undesired warm tones, whilst enabling lightened levels to display fully.

Product Type

Colour

Result

Neutralise

Specific Need

Anti-Orange

Brand

FAQ

Product has not neutralised orange at all?

 

This question is derived from the fact as to whether the hair (prior to use) was orange or in fact red. Colour Restore Cool Ash is designed to neutralise gingery tones in brunette hair, or orangey tones in blonde hair. So, the kind of tone I refer to in ‘blonde’ cases is peach. If your hair is traffic light amber, Cool Ash will not be able to neutralise, because that shade is too dark and intense for a neutraliser to do anything. If someone has got bright orange hair before use, the question really is: where did you want to be? Were you looking to be blonde or brunette? Bright orange hair near enough always indicates the hair is not lightened enough, so if you apply Cool Ash to very orange hair, and no neutralisation is seen – it simply means this described ‘orange’ tone is actually red based and a) has too much depth and b) cannot be neutralised by an anti-orange product. This last factor is important to understand in hair colouring principles. Many bright oranges are derived from red pigments. Cool Ash contains pigments that neutralise orange but not red. To neutralise red, you need a green pigment and the result would only ever be brunette as both red and green are depth colours.

If you have the correct depth and warm hue in the hair to tone (so gingery, orange, warm hue, rusty tone, a peachy-blonde orange), as we recommend the product be used on, and you still see no result, this is nearly always attributable to the barrier factor. Barriers are on the hair will prevent Cool Ash from entering. Remember, if you have just coloured or lightened the hair (prior to use of Cool Ash), did the product used to lighten feature an after-treatment conditioner? If so, this would have created a barrier on the hair.

For good neutralisation and effectiveness of Cool Ash, use Precolour Clarifier several times to clear these barriers and then use Cool Ash again at a 20-minute development.

You may feel you are seeing no result, when the product has in fact worked and neutralised warmth – but is not displaying the desired ash shade. Ash tone is a more intricate hue to display on hair that previously had warmth, simply because the ash tone infused will attempt to cancel out the warmth. When it does this, both the ash tone and the warm tone vanish, and the hair appears neutral. Therefore, to display Cool Ash as a tone (in such bases) the consumer must apply two to three intensive applications of the product to load the ash pigment in their hair. Once they have done this, they should only use a blue shampoo and Cool Ash as their two-minute conditioner. These aspects will ensure the cool ash tone is retained in the hair.

Remember one application of Cool Ash will counteract warmth and create a ‘neutral’ shade. But two to three applications would be needed to overload the hair with cool tone to create that ash shade.

How often can I use?

 

After creating the colour with intensive treatments, I recommend Cool Ash be used as a two-minute conditioner after each shampoo. I also recommend such consumers only use blue toned shampoos to cleanse their hair moving forward. As explained above, Cool Ash must work as a neutraliser to any underlying orange tone. Therefore, by continually introducing the ash pigments to the hair, it will retain an overall cool-ash shade.

Hair has a blue hue?

 

If you feel your hair looks blue after using one treatment of Cool Ash, this will be because you have a white or light blonde base with no orange tone present. In some instances, you may have perceived yellow to be orange and in fact should have used Iced Platinum. However, when this incident occurs it usually means you liked the box shade colour and were attempting to achieve this ash result more so than neutralisation. But remember, Colour Restore Cool Ash is not a ‘colourant shade’ but ash neutralisation pigments.

To remove the unwanted blue/ash simply clarify the hair, and then start using coconut oil treatments. Coconut oil is good at pulling direct dye out of the hair. You will find this blue-ash tone will go very quickly if the above approach is taken.

Lastly, use Colour Restore Chrome in the future. Chrome can be deposited onto white hair and will display a silver (slightly ash) result.

Can I use on highlights, balayage or ombre?

 

Cool Ash is a great product to use on lightened colour effects and particularly balayage, because balayage (on natural darker bases) tends to have a rusty or raw edge if it is not toned regularly. Therefore, Cool Ash is particularly good for keeping balayage effects refined and neutral. These same principles apply for the use of the product with traditional highlights and Ombre. Just remember, if these lightened effects are pale blonde, the effects from Cool Ash will cause such lightened areas to have a high ash or metallic tone. This might be preferable for a lot of consumers today (particularly brunettes), but if you like a crisp light clear blonde, you should (instead) be using Colour Restore Iced Platinum.

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Triethanolamine, Parfum (Fragrance), Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Basic Blue 99, Basic Red 76.

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