Protein spray was a product born when it became evident to me that many home colour consumers were finding their hair colours over depositing. Over depositing is an issue that occurs when a colourant is applied to either porous or very dry hair. Unlike instances where the cuticle is sealed shut (as explained with Precolour Clarifier), porous hair has a cuticle that is either damaged or has been permanently forced open by excessive chemical treatment or heat. Therefore, when an individual applies a colourant product to the hair, it is sucked directly into the cortex (the hair’s central area) and processes too fast. This phenomenon not only causes patchy and dark colour (over depositing), but also leads to serious damage of the hair fibres, because the chemicals applied have penetrated the hair too quickly.
Ammonia is a highly alkaline ingredient that is used in many permanent hair alteration treatments (lightening, colouring and perming). To evoke significant structural change to hair, it must be placed into an alkaline pH and the cuticle layer raised wide open. Ammonia can fulfil the function in technical hair treatments. This is particularly necessary with grey coverage (in colouring) and 7 level lightening (as found with bleaching). Similarly, perms and relaxing treatments will also process via high alkaline solutions. However, once hair has been treated with high alkaline solutions and the cuticle layer raised open to enable chemicals to bypass and evoke change, the cuticle can never fully close again. Depending on how far the cuticle raised in the first instance, or if indeed the alkaline solution destroyed it, the hair will become porous to varying degrees.
Similarly, constant exposure to heat (from appliances and particularly metal plated tools), will also cause damage to the cuticle layer and evoke porosity issues within the hair.
Regardless of external factors, some hair types can be naturally porous and absorb high levels of moisture and find condition levels naturally compromised. However, porosity caused by external factors such as chemicals and heat can be particularly problematic.
Porous hair will often gradually become more damaged and compromised, with small gaps forming within the hair proteins. Think of this damage like a sponge and consider how readily a sponge will accept moisture. When hair becomes sponge like, it will too readily pull in any chemicals or colour pigments applied, causing over depositing, patchy colour results and structure damage and breakage.
To ensure an even accurate colour on compromised hair types, the hair must be filled with protein. This protein not only fills any gaps in the hair (so think of the holes in that sponge), but also introduces a degree of moisture into the hair which will dilute the chemical somewhat upon its application.
Precolour Protein Spray uses Hydrolysed Wheat Protein and Argan Oil as the two actives which serve as the flooding catalyst. Therefore, when the Protein Spray is applied to hair, it will be drawn into the porous areas flooding the hair and then filling any gaps. Subsequently, when the colourant or chemical is the applied to the hair, the cortex (the hair’s centre) is buffered. This buffering causes the chemical or colourant to enter the hair in a controlled way and become somewhat diluted, thus preventing colour grabbing or damage.
Using Precolour Protein Spray prior to any aggressive chemical colour process (such as ammonia based grey coverage colourant or bleaching), will enable the hair to retain its quality whilst still producing a desired colour result. The use of Protein Spray is particularly beneficial for those who have block bleach hair colour and regularly undertake regrowth lightening, as the Protein Spray can protect previously bleached areas from snapping should the product overlap.
Additionally, Protein spray will help prevent direct dye fashion colours from irreversibly staining or toners from flushing from the hair to quickly following application.
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